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Healthful dining embraced locally
 
By Liz Benston / Staff Writer

Arlene McDonagh serves Neon Light beer to customers at Barley's in Henderson. The new low-cal, low-carb beer produced by the brewery restaurant is considered one of its more popular beers.
Photo by Matthew Minard

From low-carb beer to low-carb burgers, the Atkins diet is taking the restaurant industry by storm.

But while fast-food giants such as Carl's Jr. and casual dining chains such as TGI Friday's have jumped in with both feet, the upper-tier restaurants at Las Vegas' Strip resorts aren't necessarily buying into the marketing craze.

Resorts say their top-tier restaurants -- not to be confused with chow-line like cheap buffets -- have always offered meals that emphasize fresh, high-quality ingredients.

"The higher end just doesn't seem to be jumping on the (Atkins) bandwagon," said John Bonds, president of restaurant guide company Taste of Vegas Inc.

Bonds, who has hosted a restaurant radio show and interviewed local chefs on network television, said diners are "absolutely" caught up in a low-carb frenzy but also have become more educated about overall dining options.

"People are not just going for high-protein but are more cognizant of things that they're putting in their bodies," he said.

"For the first time in years they're saying, 'Where can I get more healthful cuisine?' "

Outside of the upscale arena, other local chains are advertising low carbohydrate fare. They include the Lo-Carb Kafe, which offers low-sugar foods, as well as L&L Hawaiian Barbeque.

In August, Barley's restaurant, microbrewery and casino began offering Neon Light, a low-calorie, low-carb beer. The beer has quickly become the second best-selling microbrew available at Barley's, outselling popular Red Rock and Black Mountain brands, Vice President and General Manager Brian Skagen said. Barley's is a partnership of Station Casinos Inc. and the Greenspun family, owner of In Business Las Vegas.

Several other local brew pubs contacted this week said they aren't making low-calorie, low-carbohydrate beer. But it may be just a matter of time.

Brewers Anheuser-Busch, Miller, Coors and Rolling Rock are rolling out or touting their planned low-carb, low-calorie brews.

Station's Sunset Station hotel-casino, in the meantime, is offering a low-carb menu at its Sunset Cafe that lists fat, carbs, protein and calorie counts for entrees.

And while not necessarily skewing toward low-carb ingredients, fine dining outlets are fueling a general trend toward healthy eating, Bonds said.

One example is celebrity Chef Bradley Ogden, who opened a restaurant at Caesars Palace a few months ago, Bonds said.

"All he talks about are 'farm-fresh ingredients,' " Bonds said.

The same holds true for Venetian, a resort that boasts some premier eateries as well as the Canyon Ranch Spa, a well-known retreat for health-conscious guests as well as people seeking a lifestyle change.

The spa's cafe menu offers a breakdown of how many calories, grams of fat and grams of carbohydrates are included in each dish.

But an Atkins fest it's not. The cafe instead offers "wholesome" choices such as wild salmon and salad. Also available: whole wheat bread and brown rice -- no-no's for strict low-carb followers.

"We emphasize healthy eating across all the food groups," Brian Zehetner, a nutritionist at the spa, said. "We're not trying to promote any one (diet). We're trying to promote moderation and healthy foods."

Steakhouses that focus on quality rather than quantity are now a ubiquitous part of the upscale dining experience on the Strip. But even meat-heavy menus don't appear to be hyping Atkins.

One example is Craftsteak, a steakhouse in MGM Grand that offers an a la carte menu dominated by meat entrees such as grilled seafood and roasted or braised steak, as well as side dishes including low-carb vegetables.

"The menu changes daily because we use the freshest ingredients available," MGM MIRAGE spokeswoman Stephanie Davis said. "They're shipped in daily -- from onions to baby asparagus ... it's not just a meat and potatoes-type steakhouse."

While the restaurant doesn't market its menu as Atkins-friendly, it is one of several restaurants at MGM MIRAGE properties that can easily accommodate low-carb diners, Davis said.

"We've seen a trend in the past year" toward low-carb choices such as fewer bread orders, she said.

Still, those customers appear to be seeking out low-carb options on the menu rather than avoiding certain restaurants altogether, she said.

"Our chefs will accommodate any guest," she said.

Liz Benston is a gaming writer for In Business Las Vegas and its sister publication, the Las Vegas Sun. She can be reached at (702) 259-4077 or by e-mail at benston@lasvegassun.com.

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